The availability of the adjustable safety razor, once relegated to a niche’ within a niche’, has recently expanded with a number of new models available over the past couple of years. How do they work, who is making them, and how well do they perform? Is the adjustable safety razor now finally something to consider as mainstream in traditional wet shaving? This is a major update of an article originally posted a couple years ago!
How Does An Adjustable Safety Razor Work?
What does an adjustable safety razor adjust? There are a number of specifications that go into the design of a razor’s head, but two important ones are probably blade gap (the distance between the blade and base plate of the razor, between the “A” and “C” points of the image above) and blade exposure (the blade sticking out and touching the skin from the top cap of the razor, between points “A” and “B” above). Adjustable safety razor settings can vary the blade gap to some degree.
The blade gap interacts with the blade exposure to create a milder or a more aggressive shave.
Vintage Adjustable Safety Razor History – Back In The Day…
The history of the adjustable safety razor is interesting, but ultimately considered a minor aspect of the over-all market. There were very few examples of an adjustable safety razor over the years. The original Gillette adjustable safety razor, the “Toggle,” morphed into a few different models. Schick (and later PAL) had a single adjustable model for the Injector blade in the 1960’s and 1970’s. Merkur produced the Progress beginning in the 1950’s, the Futur beginning in the 1980’s (more on those two below), and the ridiculously over-engineered (and yet surprisingly fragile) Merkur Vision 2000 adjustable safety razor for a short time around the year 2000.
And that was about it.
But Now There Are Many More Continuously Adjustable Safety Razors
However, more recently there has been renewed interest in the adjustable safety razor. There are new razors with blade exposure that can be continuously adjusted within a range of settings. Let’s take a look at razors you can purchase right now (note that Amazon and West Coast Shaving links are affiliate. Geni.us links may be affiliate).
Merkur Progress
The Merkur Progress adjustable safety razor design has been around since 1955 and is largely unchanged, at least visually, though there have been a few minor internal engineering tweaks over the years. It was my first adjustable safety razor and in fact became my pry-it-out-of-my-cold-dead-hands favorite for many years. You can find many reviews with a simple query of your favorite search engine. Click/tap here to read my own Merkur Progress review.
The Progress has its quirks: the handle is too smooth for some and the look of the adjustment dial seems incongruous to many (check out the “Mergress” after-market options). But the razor’s performance far outweighed the “ugly duckling” looks many.
Merkur Futur
The Merkur Futur adjustable safety razor was launched in 1985. It boasts a sleek, modern look, and an unusual “pop off” head design. Personally, I think a lot of the Futur’s popularity comes from the fact that it is (reasonably) widely available and it looks cool. This is another razor you can find many reviews of with a simple search engine query.
I have some problems with the design, though. The un-textured handle can make holding the razor awkward. The the razor’s large(-ish) head can make getting into tight areas like under the nose a challenge. And the “window” of the adjustment range is biased a bit high for some who wish the low end of the range was even lower/milder.
However it is well built and a lot of Futur users find it gives them many years of great shaves. Click/tap here to check out my review of the Merkur Futur adjustable double edge safety razor.
Parker Variant
Introduced in 2016, the Parker Variant adjustable safety razor addressed the ergonomic shortcomings that many (including myself) found in the Merkur Progress. Check my Parker Variant review for a complete run-down. But basically the Variant has a slightly longer (than the Progress 500), much better-textured handle, and a better-looking adjustment dial.
But more importantly the Parker adjustable safety razor may have opened the minds of other artisans and manufacturers to the possibility that the adjustable safety razor market was one worth considering.
Ming Shi 2000S (Qshave Adjustable)
A year after the Parker Variant was launched, Far-East manufacturer Ming Shi launched the Ming Shi 2000S adjustable safety razor. Qshave re-branded the 2000S as the Qshave Adjustable, making it a clone of a copy. The Ming Shi/Qshave clearly takes its inspiration from the Merkur Futur:
Although visually quite similar there are some aspects of the 2000S that set it apart from the Futur. This razor has a wider range of adjustment compared to the Futur, especially at the low end. And as you might expect at the price point, the Ming Shi/Qshave does “cut a few corners” in manufacturing. For example, the dial markings are painted on instead of etched in like the Futur. Some users report the printed dial numbers wear off after extended use.
My experience with the Qshave is actually quite positive–I think it shaves me better than the Futur! Although the handle is still smooth its smaller diameter seems to help me keep a more secure grip. And while the razor’s head is still relatively large, the wider adjustment range (vs. the Futur, especially at the mild end) gives it better performance for me. The razor’s quality control reputation is still a cause for concern to me though. Pay a bit more for the Qshave version which as gone through some additional QC checks if build quality is a concern; buy the Ming Shi version for a lower price.
This razor is also being “OEM’d” under a number of other brands including Van Der Hagen, River Lake, Shave Factory, and others.
Qshave Parthenon
The Qshave Parthenon, Vikings Blade Crusader, and Weishi Nostalgic razors (see the Crusader and Nostalgic sections below), all launched in 2018, appear to be based on the same basic twist-to-open (TTO) or butterfly adjustable safety razor head design. However each has their own “personality.” The initial Parthenon’s distinction was its aggressiveness. At its mildest (HA!) setting the Parthenon was quite aggressive. At the high end it was positively ludicrous.
A few months later Qshave released “version 2.0” of the Parthenon that was “toned down” considerably. Check out my review of the 2.0 version.
Vikings Blade Crusader
As I mentioned previously, the Vikings Blade Crusader adjustable safety razor appears to me to be based on the same general design as the Parthenon and the Nostalgic, but each has their own tweak. The Crusader’s distinction is an “asymmetrical head” with a standard safety bar on one side and a scalloped safety bar on the other. The optimist in me thinks the different head side design could provide additional, subtle variables in the shave in addition to simply adjusting the blade gap. The cynic in me thinks the design could “cover up” uneven blade alignment due to poor engineering or manufacturing.
And unlike other adjustable safety razor adjustment dials, the Crusader does not have any numeric markings. Just arrows pointing ‘this way for less gap’.
In my own use, this lack of numeric ‘signposts’ makes it more difficult for me to dial into the best settings for my shave compared to other adjustable razors. I don’t notice any difference in the shave based on the “asymmetrical head.” The low end of the adjustment razor was not low enough for my personal preference (but it is probably fine for most people).
However, despite these details I did not personally care for, I found the over-all shave experience to be good.
Weishi Nostalgic Adjustable
The Weishi Nostalgic Adjustable safety razor is the third of the triplets mentioned here and my favorite of the three. (note that there is a non-adjustable “Weishi Nostalgic” as well, so be sure to read product descriptions carefully). It seems to me that more thought was put into the design details this razor features.
While the Weishi is the same general size as the Qshave and the Viking’s, I think it is the most user friendly design, with a “grippier” handle, contrasting color scheme (for higher-visibility numbers on the adjustment dial), better balance, and a wider range of adjustment (particularly at the low end of the scale–this razor can get very mild indeed).
I have found that the Weishi’s head may clog a bit when used with a thick lather. And the razor’s long-term durability is a concern to me…time will tell. But my shaves with the Weishi have been very good–about equal that of the other adjustable razors I use regularly that cost much more.
Like the Qshave, the Weishi adjustable is available as an OEM product so you will see similar-looking models under a number of different brand names.
Viking’s Blade Emperor (And Augustus, Meiji)
According to the Vikings Blade website the Emperor is their “most technical” safety razor. It’s a relatively large, heavy razor, coming in at 134 grams and 110 mm in length.
There are two cosmetic versions, the standard Emperor in a “Frosted Chrome” color and the Emperor Augustus edition in “vintage bronze and cognac” colors (both use the relatively common brass/Zamak construction underneath). I have the Augustus edition. Viking’s Blade notes to “[t]horoughly towel-dry the razor after use to maintain the cognac plating.”
Engineering-wise, there have been a few tweaks compared to the earlier Crusader model. “Special ANTI-Misalignment mechanism which TRAPS the doors if users mis-align the blade to prevent uneven cuts. Hold razor upright while loading blade and closing razor to ensure doors won’t be trapped.“
The Crusader’s dual comb head design continues on the Emperor: one side has a scalloped safety bar, while the other side has a smooth safety bar.
I can’t help but compare the shaves I have with the Emperor razor to the shaves I have with the Crusader razor. First, it appears that the low end of the adjustment range of the Emperor is milder than the Crusader but the top end is about the same to me, so the adjustable window seems to be wider. I like mild razors (and adjustable razors in general!) so this is a good thing for me. Unlike the Crusader, the adjustment settings on the Emperor are printed (though not etched like a Merkur Futur) so it was easy for me to lock in the correct setting for each pass of my shave.
I couldn’t detect any difference between the sides of the dual head head design on the Crusader but I can definitely feel a difference with the Emperor. The smooth safety bar gives me a smoother-feeling shave with less blade feel, while I get noticeably more blade feel using the scalloped side, given the same adjustment setting. However I couldn’t tell any actual difference in the amount of stubble reduction from either side–it’s more of a feedback kind of thing to me.
The handle texturing is nicely “grippy” and I don’t have any problems with the razor slipping through my fingers.
Finally, the head design of the Emperor has been tweaked for easier rinsing and less clogging. Blade alignment has not been an issue for me.
Overall I get nice shaves from the Emperor.
Viking tweaked the design again for the Emperor Meiji adjustable safety razor. You can read my review here.
Rex Ambassador
Now in its second design design revision, the Rex Ambassador adjustable safety razor is a premium, artisan-made razor. Although physically a bit smaller than some other razors in this roundup, it is a high-end, stainless steel adjustable safety razor and individually serial-numbered following the old Gillette manufacturing code. The razor’s head is noticeably thinner than competing products, making detail work like shaving under the nose easier.
See my review of the Rex Ambassador on Sharpologist for more detail.
Rex is promising an adjustable slant-bar razor for early 2022!
Rockwell Model T2
After a multi-year wait from a crowdfunding campaign, the Rockwell Model T adjustable safety razor launched a couple years ago but reviews were quite mixed. In 2021 Rockwell re-designed the razor and launched the T2. The original T adjustment range was biased quite high: I am able to dial the T2 down to noticeably milder setting. One very noticeable aspect of the Rockwell T2 adjustable razor is the excellent water flow-through in the razor head.
Click/tap here to read my full review of the Rockwell Model T2.
Pearl Flexi
Earlier versions of the Pearl Flexi adjustable razor had design and build issues, particularly with blade gap and alignment. These appear to have been solved.
The Flexi seems to be positioning itself as a mid-point razor–offering more design details like a serial number and upgraded metallurgy–but not quite into the “premium” category.
Unlike the Progress and Variant (where the bottom dial also adjusts the razor) the Flexi has a second dial under the head for adjustment. I find the adjustment dial easy to use even with hands during a shave and the adjustment range quite wide. If you are a shaver who likes to adjust a razor “on the fly” you shouldn’t have any trouble with the Flexi.
Click/tap here to read my review of the Pearl Flexi adjustable razor.
Tatara Muramasa
The Tatara Muramasa adjustable razor from Portugal represents some really interesting design and engineering aspects. At US $400 it is also one of the most expensive adjustable razors on this list.
The adjustment dial adjustment marking window is very small but the adjustment range of the razor is reasonably wide (biased slightly toward the mild side). The handle of the Muramasa continues the “golf ball dimples” design of Tatara razors that distinguish it from others. It looks like it wouldn’t provide a decent grasp but I find it works quite well.
Click/tap here to read my review of the Tatara Muramasa adjustable razor.
SNMIRN
“Out of the box” I think the SNMIRN adjustable razor looks well-built and feels hefty–better than I was expecting for US $10 off of Amazon! I find the adjustment setting easy to use and the magnetic cap is strong but still easy to pop off and on for blade replacement. However the smooth handle could pose a grasp problem for some if you hold it the “wrong” way.
Click/tap here to read my review of the SNMIRN adjustable razor.
Baili/Italian Barber/Stirling Adjustable
This razor is available under a number of different brands including RazoRock and Stirling but is probably OEM’d from Baili.
The razor’s larger head made detail areas like under the nose a bit more of a challenge, there’s a little rattle from the internal mechanics, and I noticed the “sweet spot” for the best blade angle may be just a bit narrower than other razors. But after a little while I was able to figure it all out. Nothing here is a deal-breaker, especially for the low price.
Click/tap here to read my review of this razor.
Rocnel Adjustable
The Rocnel Sailor Series Adjustable razor traces its origins back to the collaboration between Murat of Rocnel razors and Hasan Kose of Barbaros razors in 2016. It was the first machined stainless steel adjustable razor on the market.
Murat further refined the Sailor Series adjustable razor. The 2022 Limited Edition Sailor Series Razor (available through Bullgoose Shaving) sports a polished brass ring and comes with an 80mm handle. The adjustment mechanism is a continuous adjustment (no set clicks): it is marked with an M and an A (for ‘mild’ and ‘aggressive’) so that you can get your bearings but in reality, you can actually go two full turns past A.
Homelike Taiga Adjustable Razor
This razor out of Russia is making some fans in the West, though shipping and import can add non-trivial amounts of time and money to get it mailed.
Yaqi Adjustable Safety Razor “The Final Cut”
Another adjustable razor I know about but have not tried yet is “The Final Cut” razor from Yaqi, available shipped from China via Aliexpress.
Parker Adjustable Injector
Launched in December, 2020 is the Parker Adjustable Injector. Using “Injector” single-edge blades rather than the double edge blades in the razors listed above, Parker was inspired by the vintage Schick Injector. The actual adjustment is lateral instead of vertical like the double edge razors listed above. For more information click/tap here to read about the Parker Adjustable Injector Razor.
Shaving With An Adjustable Safety Razor
Versatility distinguishes an adjustable safety razor vs non adjustable models. They can be used to not only tailor a shave to your specific circumstances, they can also more easily mitigate other variables in the shave that might otherwise cause problems. Transitioning to an adjustable razor may take a little time to fully appreciate its capabilities, but I think it’s worth the effort. See: How To Use An Adjustable Razor Most Effectively
Other Safety Razors That Are Adjustable In Some Fashion
All of the razors above are fully adjustable safety razor designs. They are continuously variable within a wide range. There are also some razors that may offer adjustable elements without a continuously variable design or to a narrower degree.
Feather Adjustable
The Feather Adjustable safety razor is relatively new to the market (and may be difficult to find, though I bought one from Amazon. It is a relatively inexpensive razor with two settings, “1” and “2.” Setting “1” is extremely mild while setting “2” is more middle-of-the-road. Like the Feather Popular and Feather AS-D2 razors, I find that the Feather Adjustable pairs very well with a Feather blade: the very mild setting needs a high-efficiency blade to perform well.
Multi Base Plate Razors
Rockwell started the multi base plate razor trend with a Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign in 2014 by offering a set of base plates, each with a different blade gap design. The 6S is stainless steel while the 6C is the more common and lower-cost “chrome” (pot metal). Here is my review of the Rockwell 6S adjustable stainless steel safety razor I wrote for Sharpologist a few years ago.
Other razor producers have applied Rockwell’s multi-plate concept by offering additional base plates to their razors. Above The Tie has offered different plates for many of their razors. The Karve Christopher Bradley razor can be purchased with one or more plates made for that razor (check out my article about the Christopher Bradley razor for more detail). I’m sure there are more examples extant!
Supply took the multi-base plate concept of the Rockwell and applied it to an Injector-style single edge razor. This razor is built like a tank and should easily hold up to many years of use. Supply is preparing to launch anew revision of their single edge razor and a fully-adjustable Injector razor in early 2022.
What Is The Best Adjustable Double Edge Safety Razor?
Of course everyone has their preferences, but I’ve used quite a few razors in my time and I definitely have some favorites for “best” adjustable safety razor.
For pure performance, regardless of price, I have to go with the Rex Ambassador. As you should expect from an artisan-made, premium-priced razor the Ambassador is exceptionally well engineered, well-built, and well-balanced.
For the best price/performance ratio, I would give the nod to the Parker Variant. The Viking’s Blade Emperor “Meiji” version comes in a close second.
For a lower-cost adjustable safety razor that still gives good performance I would consider the Weishi Nostalgic Adjustable or the Baili/Stirling/RazoRock the ones to look at.
The best “semi adjustable” for me is going to be the Rockwell 6S.
Final Thoughts
There is now no longer a real reason not to try an adjustable razor: they are available with a variety of handles, head styles, and price points.
What do you think about adjustable razors? Be sure to share this article and leave a comment below!
There is also the Ming Shi 3000S, an adjustable TTO…reviewers say it’s on the mild side.
As a matter of fact I *just* received one. Review coming soon!
Nice update to the article. I have the Pearl Flexi, the three classic Gillettes (Fat Boy, Slim and Black Beauty – a Toggle is out of my price range) and the Yaqi is on order. I’m increasingly becoming a big fan of adjustables.
I also have one not on your list: the GSC Fat Guy. It’s quite a decent razor – you should give it a try (and maybe add it to your next update).
Thanks for reminding me about the Fat Guy! I need to order one.
Finally got a Rex and I’m so happy I did. I like my adjustables, I learned to shave as a teen using our family’s Gillette Super. But the Rex is the cat’s pajamas (at least for now).
Awesome!
I have the Futur with the TTO design. It’s back in the case on a shelf. The Rockwell is okay, but I went back to my Gillette Fat Boy after a few shaves. The same with the Qshave Parthenon Razor (1st version). The Qshave was far too aggressive for me.
I’m looking forward to trying the Fat Guy soon from https://globalshave.club/coming-soon
I did like the Gillette Slim and Black Beauty but the Fat Boy just seems to beat them out.
I have about 11 adjustable razors, and I’ve never met an adjustable razor that I didn’t LOVE. It’s impossible for me to have a “favorite.” I do prefer a design that has the adjustment dial at the bottom of the handle, such as the Apollo Mikron and the Merkur Progress, as in theory there is less chance of the dial mechanism getting gunked up with soap and/or mineral deposits.
Good article and thanx!
Mantic, this article came along just at the right time for me. I was thinking of a “backup” razor in case my Ming Shi 2000S (Qshave Adjustable) was worn out/broken some day.
These are good tips and I will check out the Rex, plates, 90 Speciale, and the new Weishi Nostalgic.
Mark, I own 3 vintage Gillette adjustables, Fatboy, Slim and a black handle. How do these compare to the new offerings? Owning mostly vintage razors, I am trying to decide if the newer offerings give better shaves. I will say, out of the 3 adjustables mentioned above, I prefer the Gillette Slim the best. Your frequent mentions of the Parker Variant have me thinking about another razor purchase. Good article!
Steve, I was in the same boat as you. I thought I had it all covered with Gillette products. Then I tried a Ming Shi 2000S (Qshave Adjustable) and loved it. It does have a sweet spot angle to it, but it performs better than the Fat Boy, in my opinion. Give this economical razor a try.
Thanks Mark for another interesting article. I however won’t be looking to replace my fat boy any day soon.
Cheers
Great article Mark! I just got into DE shaving a little over a year ago , and it was your review of the Parker Variant that sold me. It has been a joy to use, but I’m ready to try (collect) a few more. This article definitely points the way. Thanks!
– Ken
If you consider the Rockwell 6 line and the Karve as adjustable, you should add Above the Tie. ATT razors same flavor of S corporation sells they said you only have you half to where are you the escort if you have because have heads with different levels of efficiency (M, R and H) in safety bar and own comb versions, as well as slant heads—again, safety bar and own comb versions. So there are eight versions, in stainless steel and aluminum, with copper and bronze variations.
Other boutique brands also have baseplates with varying efficiency. To many for me to remember.
Excellent point. I have edited the article to mention ATT!
Thank you, Mark, for the informative article. I have most of the above, save for the model T which is in the mail. So far the REX ambassador is my favorite, but also the most expensive. Being adjustable enables me to start on a high setting for pass one and then dial down for subsequent passes.
Hi Mark,
I like this article because I never understood the details of the “adjustables”. Suggestion: I would appreciate a detailed description of your experience with the different settings, explaining the positive and negative effects of each adjustment. I am not clear on what each position of adjustment produces what affect and if the affect is really significant to justify a purchase.
I am working on a follow-up to this article that goes into more detail about how adjustables work and how to use them properly. Stay tuned…. 🙂
I’m in love withthe great looks of the Futur. I have 1 in satin steel, with a matching, Futur brush & stand, and a polished gold one. I can’t use either more than every 4 days. They are too AGGRESSIVE; yes,even on their lowest setting. I know I am not alone with this problem. Why doesn’t Merkur correct this problem, and increase the market for this cool, looking, razor ?
For that matter, why don’t they *finally* make a better-looking adjustment dial? “Mergress” retrofits show that it would be popular. But apparently Merkur just does not have the interest.
HI,
Thanks for this article it is nice to see the increasing number of choices available for most part at sensible cost! Cheers!
I have some of these. The Merkur Progress and Futur, The Rockwell 6c and Model T. I haven’t tried the model T yet. The 6c is a fav of mine. I have the Parker Variant, the Supply injector, and the plastic Dorco also. I think thats about it. I like the adjustables but also the more traditional DE’s and SE;s too. Thanks for a very good article.
I have the Rockwell 6C and find plate1/3 and 4/2 give me the closest,most comfortable and nick free razor in my den. Great article ,thank you for the time and effort.
I have never met an adjustable razor that I didn’t love! I’m surprised there hasn’t been many more adjustable razors on the market over the decades. Used correctly, the adjustable razor is the ultimate in razor sophistication.
I suspect two things have militated against a greater popularity of the adjustable razor: the high cost, and many guys misuse the adjustable razor. Often they crank it up to the highest setting, and then wonder why they have a bloodbath?
I am anxiously awaiting my Model T from Rockwell, but for the past few years I have been using a Gillette black beauty. It is by far my favorite of all my adjustable razors.
I have been using a 1965 Gillette Adjustable for years. After trying other safety razors it remains my primary. Trying a straight razor now but the Gillette will always be my favorite.
Really thorough review thanks!