It seems like duck fat-based shave soap is one of the latest trends in wet shaving these days. Joe Borrelli talked about it in a recent Wet Shaving Talk Podcast (skip to 8:00 into the recording) and I recently saw Oleo Soapworks was blending a number of interesting-sounding shave soap scent profiles with duck fat so I cracked open my wallet and tried a few.
Oleo Soapworks
According to their website, “Oleo Soapworks is small handmade soap shop located in Chicago, which is owned and operated by Vida Perez-Velazquez.”
They make a distinction between “natural” and “organic” ingredients:
“You’ll notice there’s no mention of the word ‘organic’ on this website but that’s not because we think organic is a bad thing. You see, labeling a product organic entails certain [legal] requirements and while our products are made natural and in some instances organic ingredients, unless they are certified Organic by the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) where a minimum of 70% (and up to 95%) of the total ingredients (including the water AND lye — which don’t exist) are certified organic, we can’t legally use the word ‘organic’ on our products. So in the interest honesty and full disclosure what we strive to do is list our raw ingredients on our product labels and website and continue to source those ingredients from established and reputable companies with the highest standards.”
Oleo Soapworks makes a number of bath and personal products but I decided to concentrate on their duck fat tallow shaving soap line.
The products are available from their own website, West Coast Shaving (which has been adding more artisan products lately), and Amazon (through West Coast Shaving’s Amazon shop).
The Shave Soaps I Tried
There are quite a few scents (with some additional scents coming) but I decided to try four for a representative sample. They all include duck fat tallow, kokum butter, and jojoba oil among the ingredients:
Windy City Barbershop
Oleo description: “A smooth powdery barbershop fragrance with the elements of the Windy City. Scent notes: Amber, Musk, Bay Rum, Pink Pepper, Steel & Gunpowder”
West Coast Shaving’s description is basically the same: “…amber, musk, bay rum, pink pepper, & gunsmoke….”
My take: Pepper and gunpowder are the predominant notes for me, with a subtle Bay Rum note fighting to make its way past. This is not my idea of a barbershop scent, but hey, to each his own. 🙂
Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Kokum Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Palm Kernel Oil, Duck Fat, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Glycerin, Jojoba Oil & Sodium Lactate
Traviso
Oleo description: “A trip to Italy in a jar! Tiramisu scented in our luxurious Canard Base”
West Coast Shaving says “Notes of chocolate, liqueur, and coffee…”
My take: I get a toasted chocolate note that’s quite sweet-smelling.
Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Kokum Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Palm Kernel Oil, Duck Fat, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Glycerin, Jojoba Oil & Sodium Lactate
Shiloh
Oleo description: “A scent inspired by Acqua Di Parma Colonia in our Canard (Duck Tallow) Base. Scent Notes: Sicilian citrus, Lavender, Rosemary, Verbena, Damask Rose, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli”
West Coast Shaving’s description includes “Shiloh has notes of Sicilian citrus, lavender, rosemary, verbena, damask rose, vetiver, sandalwood, & patchouli. “
My take: a very citrus-dominated, cologne-like scent.
Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Kokum Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Palm Kernel Oil, Duck Fat, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Glycerin, Jojoba Oil & Sodium Lactate
El Cabellero
Oleo description: “This scent is a bridge between Bay Rum and gentleman’s cologne.”
West Coast Shaving gives a bit more detail, with: “notes of bergamot, basil leaf, musk, oak moss, white patchouli, amber, and bay rum.”
My take: by far the mildest scent of this group. It does not give me that Bay Rum vibe, and neither does it remind me of a cologne. I get a very subtle bergamot and musk mix. Not unpleasant to me at all but not what I was expecting from the description.
Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Kokum Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Palm Kernel Oil, Duck Fat, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Glycerin, Jojoba Oil & Sodium Lactate
Performance
All the scents I tried became considerably milder when lathered to the face. I prefer strongly-scented lathers–my poor scent of smell often lets me down. While most will get a pleasant scent during the shave, my experience was a little disappointing.
However, the performance is excellent for me! It approaches (though not quite achieves) the level of the high-end, beef tallow-based soaps like DR Harris. These soaps lather quickly and voluminously for me, even in my hard water (and it can take a ton of water). Cushion is excellent and lubrication is outstanding in my opinion.
Post-shave feel is noteworthy–my face felt exceptionally moisturized.
I need a little more time with these soaps, and gather some other reviewer’s thoughts, but this shave soap may be making an appearance on Sharpologist’s Best Shave Soap list soon!
Have you tried Oleo Soapworks? Leave a comment below with your impressions!
West Coast Shaving and Amazon links are affiliate.
I’ve tried the jojoba based Fougere, Chypre, and Oriental soaps. All excellent. You might prefer the Fougere as it is scented a lot stronger than the others. I liked the Oriental enough to buy another tub of it, on sale recently, and mistakenly received a tub of the duck fat variety. If it is better performing than the jojoba varieties, I will be thrilled because that was really good. Perhaps I’ll check in here again when I’ve had a chance to try the same scent, Oriental, in a different (duck fat) base.
I am just wondering are they all used teh same recipe, ingredients looks like copy paste to me:)
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