Saponificio Varesino, a past sponsor of Sharpologist, recently sent me a puck of one of their newest shave soaps, Morado. Here are my thoughts on it.
Saponificio Varesino Morado
From the Saponificio Varesino website:
“This special edition shaving soap is presented in an anthracite-colored aluminum tin with an intricately stamped metallic label in antique brass. The triple-milled hard soap is intended to be used with a shaving brush.
The Morado edition features the characteristic fragrance of the collection and uses our ‘Beta 4.3’ formulation – a further step forward in the evolution of our shaving soap in pursuit of enhanced lubrication and protection during the shave and enhanced post-shave skin feel.
The renewed formulation includes a larch tree extract which reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), making it an excellent choice for those skin types that tend to dryness. It also includes a new vegetal compound, based on castor oil, that gives a lubricating action and helps the razor mechanical action.
Scent
An intriguing, full-bodied and persistent masculine fragrance characterized by woody and amber notes.
The top notes present the fragrance with citrus hints of bergamot and mandarin, which enhance the aromatic and spicy heart of lavender, mint and ginger.
In the soft base notes, sandalwood, ambergris and oak moss are accompanied by the sweetness of vanilla and a slight hint of tobacco.
Ingredients
Sodium Cocoate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Rapeseedate, Sodium Sunflower Seedate, Aqua / Water / Eau, Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract, Lactis Proteinum, Fraxinus Ornus (Manna Ash) Sap Extract, Erythritol, Coco Glucoside, Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter, Glyceryl Oleate, Ricinus Communis Oil, Galactoarabinan, Sucrose Cocoate, Parfum / Fragrance, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Copernica Cerifera Cera, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almzaond) Oil, Orych Riceativa) Oil , Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Citric Acid, Coumarin, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene.
What Others Are Saying About Saponificio Varesino Morado Shave Soap
Comments about Morado are mostly from the niche discussion forums:
“…super great performance. [T]hick pillowy lather that was slick and protective. [T]he scent was like a mellow version of acqua di gio with some powder notes.”
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“…[M]y very first thoughts were a bit woody and does have that amber base and could sense a spice…and think I can warm up to it and its that woody I do not have in my collection so yeah glad I got it !”
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“Typical awesome Saponificio Varesino lather and performance.”
“Scent = definitely a boelis panama homage. Think jpg le male, but with more talc and more refined…similar to Razorock mudder focker which also happens to be a boelis panama homage. Morado is better though.”
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“The Soap and aftershave smell fantastic and the performance is top notch.“
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My Experience With Saponificio Varesino Morado Shave Soap
[Note: I received a tin of Morado at no charge from Saponificio Varesino but the opinions expressed below are my own and have not been reviewed or approved by Saponificio Varesino.
Presentation
Like other Saponificio Varesino shave soaps, Marado is a hard, triple-milled soap that comes in a stamped aluminum tin. I like the retro-ish look of it.
Scent
I find the scent relatively mild and not very persistent, so it shouldn’t get in the way of any post-shave fragrance you may want to wear. I get citrus and wood notes in my notoriously insensitive nose. On the other hand my wife took a good whiff and immediately said “barber shop!”
Lather
Like other Saponificio Varesino shave soaps I’ve tried, Morado lathers easily and luxuriously for me, even in my “hard” water. Interestingly, this particular soap seems to be a little more “thirsty” than other Saponificio Varesino shave soaps I’ve used.
Performance
Maybe it’s that “thirstiness” that makes a difference, or maybe it’s something else in the ingredient mix, but I find Morado performs even better than other “beta 4.3” formulation Saponificio Varesino soaps I have.
The others I have perform well but I find Morado outstanding in both the lubrication/glide and the cushion/protection aspects of my shave.
Post-shave moisturization and skin-feel is also excellent for me.
Summing Up
In conclusion, Saponificio Varesino Morado Shave Soap is a great product for those looking for a natural, vegan option. It has a pleasant, barbershop-like scent (in my opinion, your mileage may vary). Given the quality of the product, I think it is worth the investment. The soap lathers well and provides a close, comfortable shave and leaves my skin feeling soft and hydrated.
Morado is available from Saponificio Varesino (US), Pasteur, Bullgoose (Sharpologist sponsor), The Razor Company, and other specialized vendors.
I would urge caution to any who have a tendency to react to perfumes, oils, and other compounds. The list of ingredients below tells the entire story. IMO these kinds of products should be avoided by those with allergies of any kind.
Ingredients: Sodium Cocoate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Rapeseedate, Sodium Sunflower Seedate, Aqua / Water / Eau, Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract, Lactis Proteinum, Fraxinus Ornus (Manna Ash) Sap Extract, Erythritol, Coco Glucoside, Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter, Glyceryl Oleate, Ricinus Communis Oil, Galactoarabinan, Sucrose Cocoate, Parfum / Fragrance, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Copernica Cerifera Cera, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almzaond) Oil, Orych Riceativa) Oil , Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Citric Acid, Coumarin, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene.
In the last ten years I’ve used shave soaps and creams by Art of Shaving, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Mr. Fine, Ariana & Evans, and Declaration Grooming, with the latter my preference until I discovered Saponificio Varesino. When I made my first purchase of Desert Vetiver 4.3, I wondered if the price could be justified, but I was desperate to find a great vetiver scent. When I lathered up my first bowlful, that question was resolved by its performance and scent. The question became: How long will a tin last? Answer: Months when alternated with another SV soap in daily use. Dolomiti 4.3 was my second order when SV touted the larch addition. Then, as my Desert Vetiver ran low, I decided to try Cosmo based on aftershave sample SV sent along. Loved it. Then when my Dolomiti ran low, I ordered Sardegna di Mirto. It proved to have the best performance of all. It lathered more easily with less soap than any of the others, yet the protection and slickness remained the same. The scent now is my favorite. So I’ll be alternating the Desert Vetiver and Sardegna di Mirto for the foreseeable future. I’m sold on this stuff, especially now that I’ve noticed I can save $10 by re-using a spent tin and purchasing the boxed puck of some of the formulations.
Thank you Ned for the awesome review !! Please do not hesitate to reach out to me at Saponificio Varesino USA if you need anything.
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