Skip to content

An Adjustable Razor "Sweet Spot?"

Listen to this article

I recently received a Merkur Futur for my birthday and it’s my first adjustable razor. Do you have any advice for finding the sweet spot on an adjustable razor? Is it better to set it on a mild setting and make an extra pass, or to make fewer passes with a more aggressive setting? I’ve been working on proper technique, but I still end up requiring touch-ups after a standard 3 shave pass.

I can tell you what *I* do with an adjustable, though I’ll be the first to admit not everyone does it the same way.

I always keep my adjustable at a very mild setting for the first pass (about a “2” on my Progress). That way the “bulk” of my beard is reduced very comfortably. I will then dial up slightly (usually about a “3” on my Progress) for pass 2 and 3. I then dial back down for any touch-ups.

Author

Shave tutor and co-founder of sharpologist. I have been advocating old-school shaving for over 20 years and have been featured in major media outlets including The Wall Street Journal, The Washington Post, and Lifehacker. Also check out my content on Youtube, Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, and Pinterest!View Author posts

5 thoughts on “An Adjustable Razor "Sweet Spot?"”

  1. I am considering purchase of the Progress with adjustable settings. Right now I have Parker 60R without.
    Does anyone have an opinion on whether the extra cost for the Progress is worth it? Sounds like you don't vary the settings much.

  2. I use A Futur bro and find 1.5 perfect i have quite sensitive skin with course stubble and find this is best gives great shave with just one pass 2 pass is smooth as possible with no irritation.

    I started out at first thinking it would be better to have more aggressive setting but realised with good technique there is no need for that unless you want to get CUT !

  3. I use the opposite strategy. I start off on a higher setting (about 3 or 4 on a Progress,) then dial it down by a notch for each successive pass.

    My theory with adjustables is that I want a more aggressive shave when I have more stubble to harvest. So if its been 1 day since my last shave, I set it on 1, for a 3-day stubble, I set it up to about 4.5. After the first pass and the majority of whiskers have been removed/reduced, then I dial it down to a gentler setting.

  4. Hi Mantic.

    Perhaps a variation on the original question but do you find the settings work for both neck and cheeks? I have been persevering with the Markur HD for some time and whilst the results are great above the jawline it's been blotchy and irritable below (tried Merkur, no-names and Dovo blades). I've even gone back to my Mach 3 as a result. I was concluding that a fixed adjustment razor is not going to work for my entire beard. Any thoughts?

    Thanks.

Comments are closed.