New Zealand Report 2

This is my second installment of my six month shaving in the wilds experiment in New Zealand. As outlined in a previous Sharpologist article, I am four months into a six month stint of living and working in Christchurch, NZ. My experiment was to go native: bring only my brush (Parker Silvertip Badger) and razor (Feather AS-D2) and purchase all my software locally. In particular, I would limit myself to locally produced shave creams/soaps.

First Experiment

My first experiment was with Triumph & Disaster’s shave cream. As discussed in my previous field report, T&D’s shave cream, while fine for cartridge shaving, fell too far short for DE shaving. 

My next experiment was with a locally made shave soap. After getting burned (pun intended) on the T&D shave cream, I decided to go with a soap.

Why a soap, and not another cream? Shave soaps can only be used with a shave brush, and if you’re using a shave brush, you’re probably a DE shaver. This way I would not again fall into the trap of a shave product designed for cartridge shavers that have enough words to entice a DE shaver into a purchase they’ll later regret.

When I had this epiphany, I realized what a great service Mark/Mantic59 provides with the Sharpologist! I was now flying blind in New Zealand without any guidance of what was worth trying and what was not, or what was essentially designed for cartridge shavers only.

Searching

Web searching hinted at a multitude of options, ok, six to be exact. I believe that 1 or 2 of the six may be out of business. Another 1 or 2 have very limited or no distribution, including one intriguing option that is only available from the Queenstown barbershop that produces it. Orthogonal to this was my other red flag filter: my perception of the producer’s level of dedication to their shave soap. Was producing a quality shave soap one of their main priorities, or was their shave soap a side hustle (or worse, an after thought) to “complete” their line of personal care products. For example one of the producers had a ton of beard care products: oils, washes, butters, etc, and one shave soap. My list shrank to two.

Option one was Aermeda – an award winning soap manufacturer with a line of goat milk-based shave soaps. One of their awards was for their shave soap! This soap is only available in high-end shops and carried a price tag to match.

Option two was Naturalus – a Christchurch-based husband and wife team of medical herbalists. Prior to the earthquake, they had a store/clinic, but now focus on mail order and direct sales at local markets. Naturalus produces just about everything under the sun: soaps, creams, powders, oils, etc. You indicate what your issue is to this pair of medical herbalists and they have a product to help you.

Some Christchurch history and Kiwi culture. In 2011 Christchurch experienced a massive earthquake that quite literally destroyed the central business district. Everything has been rebuild, except oddly enough the city’s namesake cathedral. However, many small businesses either never recovered or shifted their business model. Also, Kiwis love their weekly local markets. While farmers do sell local produce, they are not what North Americans would call a Farmer’s Market. New Zealand is still primarily an agricultural society and market day is still a big deal. Some of the larger markets extend across multiple acres, while even in the smaller ones, one can buy clothes, hats, food, locally caught fish, gardening equipment, and at weekly markets in the Christchurch area – Naturalus products.

Yes, I purchased a bar of Naturalus shave soap, even though they are a red flag producer. Let me further embarrass myself. Picture me standing in front of the Naturalus stand at a weekly market talking to the bearded husband from the husband/wife team that is Naturalus, purchasing their shave soap. We’re not talking about a well trimmed beard that still required shaving as part of one’s beard trimming/maintenance routine. This was a full-blown Grizzly Adams multi-year growth beard. If you don’t get that cultural reference think of Burt’s beard on the cover of any Burt’s Bees products. Seriously, who purchases shave soap from a bearded producer who clearly hasn’t shaved in years?

To make matters worse, as I was walking away, the guy yells out that if I don’t like the soap to shave with, I could always use it to wash my hair!

What can I say – it was cheap.

Aermeda

Before I get to my review of the Aermeda shave soap, let me cut to the chase regarding the Naturalus soap – it sucked. However, I am enjoying it as a shampoo. A quick online investigation showed that the ingredient list of both products to be nearly identical. 

Back to the Aermeda shave soap. I opted for their Cedarwood & Lavender scent. Their other options are: Sandalwood and Frankincense, Sandalwood & Geranium, Lavender, Rosemary & Ylang Ylang, and a Vegan Orange, Clary Sage & Ylang Ylang.

Aermeda’s Cedarwood & Lavender shave soap’s ingredient list (from their web page): Soybean, Kokum butter, Coconut oil, Cocoa butter, Castor oil, Goats milk, Otago rain water, Jojoba oil, Potassium hydroxide, Sodium hydroxide, Essential oils of Cedarwood, Patchouli, Frankincense, Lavender, Amyris with Tussah silk.

I’m not sure what some of these ingredients are: Tussah silk? Amyris? I can say, however, that Otago rain water is just what you think it is, collected rain water that fell in Otago – which is, as a matter of coincidence, where their factory is located. It is the district/province just south of Christchurch.

I found the soap to be on the hard side. By that I mean if I did not blossom the soap it would take a very long time to sufficiently load up my brush. However, once loaded, using a mug as my scuttle, lather creation was quick and easy.

I would describe the lather as being on the thin side, more like icing/frosting than meringue. My apprehension was that there would not be sufficient cushioning. I am happy to report that the cushioning and glide were both sufficient for a fine two pass shave. 

Furthermore, scent was pleasant and not overwhelming. Post shave feel was a nicely moisturized face.

I don’t think, however, the lather was thick enough or long lasting enough for a three pass shave. 

Is this a top-ten shave soap? Sadly, no. Would I be frustratingly disappointed if I had to shave the rest of my life with this soap – also no. I enjoy a fine shave with this product. If it came down to either a beard or shaving with this soap, I would stay clean-shaven. 

That said, it is missing that glorious sense of luxury one can experience with a top-shelf boutique shave soap. After all, I paid a boutique producer’s price for my puck. For example, Cella provides a better shave experience at less than half the price. 

In conclusion, suffice it to say, I am being successful shaving in the wilds here in New Zealand, but I won’t be bringing back any of my finds, so far, in my suitcase.