Did you get a shaving kit for men as a gift but you’re not sure how to use it properly? You have come to the right place–Sharpologist is all about getting a great shave!
So What Did You Get With Your Shaving Kit For Men?
Odds are some kind of shaving brush, a razor, maybe a stand, and if you’re lucky a bowl and a cream or soap. Let’s look at how each element of the set works.
Before You Begin
Be sure to adequately prepare for your shave: wash with a gentle cleanser meant specifically for the face (even if you’re shaving something other than your face, you dig?) so you don’t strip off too much of the skin’s natural oil which will make shaving easier.
The shave brush in the shaving kit for men is probably where most get that “dear in the headlights” look. Totally understandable. There are several different types of hair material in brushes, each with their own subtle differences, but using one is pretty much the same.
NOTE: The first time you use an animal hair shave brush (particularly the less expensive ones) you may get a weird wet animal smell (often referred to as “The Funk” by shaving aficionados). This is normal and should go away after a week or so of use. If you want to knock it down more quickly try wetting the brush and using some pet shampoo on it. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely before using it with shave lather.
The Lathering Process
Making shaving lather the “classic” way starts with soaking both the brush in water. Fill a sink with warm-to-hot water and place the shaving brush in the sink. How long the brush needs to be soaked is dependent on the type of brush hair: boar hair, horse hair, and low grades of badger hair (such as “pure black”) need to soak longer (maybe several minutes) than higher grades of badger (perhaps less than a minute).
After soaking dump the water out of the container of soap or cream and gently shake the brush three or four times to get rid of the excess. Load your brush:
- If you have a shave soap puck or a jar of shave cream, swirl the brush onto it, pressing down slightly, to coat the brush’s bristles with product (an alternative for the jar is to scoop some out with a small utensil and place it directly into the center of the brush). You are looking for more than just a light foam on the bristles–you want a relatively thick coating.
- If you are using a tube of shave cream, squeeze out an almond-size amount directly into the center of the brush.
Generating lather can be done in an empty bowl of some kind (maybe your kit has one?) or directly onto the face. An advantage of using a bowl is that you can get a better idea of how the brush is “building” the lather. Tip: if you gently heat the bowl beforehand (by soaking it in the sink’s warm water too) you can get a warmed lather than can feel great.
On the other hand building lather directly to the face can save some time and help with shave preparation if you have skimped on it.
Massage the brush into the bowl or on the face using circular motions and pressing the brush down slightly. Some advocate using a painting motion vs. a circular motion but let’s start off with circular. Massage for about 30 seconds then dip the tips of the brush in water and repeat. It may take a a couple minutes for the lather to build on the brush to the right consistency (depending on the type of brush, the type of product used, and the mineral content of the water). Whether you’re building in a bowl or to the face, you are looking for a shiny, somewhat “loose” consistency (runnier than what might come out of a can or brushless tube) with soft “peaks” (like cake batter or yogurt) without any bubbles. Take your time and enjoy the scent and feel of the shaving lather.
The Razor (And The Act Of Shaving)
Your shaving set for men probably included a nice razor of some type–a modern cartridge razor with a nice handle, an old-school double edge razor, or maybe even a straight razor. No matter what you received keep in some near-universal truths about using a razor:
- The most comfortable and safe way to shave is to reduce the beard in stages or “passes,” don’t try to get rid of it all at once.
- Don’t try to catch every little spot or shave the same spot over and over again. That’s a prescription for irritation.
The first pass should be in the direction the hair grows in (the “grain”). Use your hand to stroke an area from different directions–one direction will feel smoother than the others. That’s the grain. Your first pass should almost feel leisurely.
If you want a closer shave after that first pass, briefly rinse (just to keep the skin wet), relather, and shave “across” the grain (the direction 90 degrees away from the grain).
As you get more comfortable with your shaving kit for men you may want to try for an against-grain pass for that “baby’s butt” feel, but be aware some people’s skin just can’t handle that.
If you received a double edge razor but have never used one before be aware that they require a slightly different technique. Be sure to take it slow, find the right angle for the blade, lock your wrist, and use short strokes. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get a great shave on the first try (or several tries)! You’re learning a new skill, like riding a bike or playing a musical instrument: some practice will be necessary.
Those are the basics of using your new shaving set for men. Be sure to read through Sharpologist for more information on how to get a great shave!