[Note from Mantic59: Continuing the discussion of barber shaves (started from this post), I've asked Craig The Barber for his opinions.]
What should a customer expect?
When a customer requests a shave from me, my goal is to always deliver a close and comfortable shave that’s free of irritation, and high on comfort. The way this is accomplished is by focusing my attention on keeping the face as moist as possible from the beginning of the shave to the end.
I do this by using anywhere from 4-7 hot towels throughout the entire service. Typically I start by cleansing and exfoliating the skin. Then follow with a specifically chosen pre-shave oil. The next step would be 1-2 applications of a shaving cream that blends well with the pre-shave oil for greater moisture and glide, and also calming qualities for the customer.
Shaving steps vary from customer to customer, however I always start with the grain and end by shaving across and spot shaving against, making sure to re-lather whenever a different direction is established.
Because I feel that the post shave is just as important as the 1st two steps, I always use a mixture of water and witch hazel as a splash, followed by an ice old towel to the face. The aftershave balm is the final step for the shaved area, and a moisturizer for the rest of the face is obviously in order. The duration of the service can last anywhere form 30 minutes to an hour depending on the customer and the shave service selected.
As for the general expectations of the customer, they are often very high. But not as high as the pressure I put on myself to deliver a great shaving experience!
What questions should a customer ask before the shave?
Well, I get a lot of first timers asking me if “I’ve ever cut someone?”, but I know that that’s just their nerves talking. So please try not to ask that one. However, two questions that I personally would not be opposed to answering would be: “How many years have you been shaving?” or “Will you be shaving me with a straight-razor or a safety/cartridge razor?”
- The number of years can most of the time give the customer a good idea of the skill level of the barber. However, I’ve personally witnessed barbers with less than a year of experience wield a straight razor with unbelievable precision and skill. So, the best way is to use your judgment after this question has been answered, and always try to ask around for recommendations.
- The use of a straight razor is the #1 difference between a barber and a cosmetologist. It’s a skill learned in barbering school and perfected on the job, or during an apprenticeship. So if a barber shave is being done with anything other than a straight razor, it’s best to know beforehand.
What kinds of information should a customer convey to the barber?
The more skilled a barber becomes in shaving a customer, the easier it is for he/she to recognize certain shaving challenges the customer may have from shaving. With this in mind, having a discussion about skin sensitivities and areas that are prone to irritation is a great way of reassuring the customer, and making sure that he and the barber are on the same page.
What is the attitude of the barber towards shaving a customer?
Well, speaking for myself. I love the art of shaving, and I always look forward to the opportunity to give my new and existing clientele a taste of a timeless barbering tradition.
Are customers disappointed if the barber uses a cartridge razor to do the shave?
If not, they should be. Performing a shave with a cartridge razor not only is a service that can be done at home with ease, and obviously with a lower price tag. But it’s also a misrepresentation of the art of shaving that many barbers take pride in performing.
A few days ago I reported that Coates, the venerable British shaving cream manufacturer, was about to go out of business (for a second time). After a little investigation I received this email from Robert Johnston, part owner of Coates, which says in part:
Unfortunately it has proved a difficult sell to bring traditional products to a much wider consumer market than shaving forums and online stores so we [are] struggling to find the investment to produce any further products. We even tried to sell the family home last year, such is our commitment to Coate’s, but to no avail.
We will continue seeking further investment and have been encouraged by sales of our existing products, despite what you might think reading [the shaving forums].
So there you have it. I am happy to report that, although Coates may be down, it is not out!
Trimming sideburns can be a frustrating experience, even if you have a single blade to trim with. That’s usually because you inevitably change either the position of your head or the position of the razor, resulting in an off-center, uneven trim. Here is one way to have better success with trimming your sideburns.
It may seem obvious, but one of the best ways to keep sideburns trim and even is to simply look at yourself in a mirror straight-on. Try not to turn your head or raise your head up and down. Trust yourself to see the area with your mind’s eye after you get your first look. Then line up the side of your razor’s head so it’s straight on with the mirror too. From there take a single stroke, straight down. Relather the area and starting from well below the edge take short strokes, creeping upward to clean up any ragged edge.
This same technique can be used with other facial hair such as gotees or chinstraps. Take a single stroke to get the general area then use short strokes to creep toward the area to clean it up.
As a traditional barber in the UK who first learned the art of straight or ‘cut-throat’ razor shaving in excess of thirty years ago, I have seen many changes to the way in which it is exposed to the paying public – and not for the better either!
Times are tough, but shaving doesn’t have to be a wallet-breaker! You work hard, you play hard, but you shave with little to no pressure (right?). Like many wet shavers, the temptation to buy product is always looming, tantalizing. Such a cruel yet satisfying mistress. In an attempt to quench that thirst, I started combing the online shaving stores and reviews for some of the better rated, inexpensive shave creams.
What about shave soaps?
I don’t use them.
Yeah, but… but…
As a newbie, I never was able to get the hang of lathering a soap, so I switched to creams and have used them exclusively since. Perhaps I will try soaps one day. So, for now, this will be a series of reviews of some of the more affordable shaving creams that I could find to fit my budget. I will be buying one or two new creams at a time as money (and the wife) allow. The price cap will be $15 (not including shipping) unless there is one that pops up that I have to try.
Like a terminally ill patient who recovers only to be hit by a train, venerable British shaving cream maker Coates has had to call it quits…again. Once part of Simpsons (pre-Vulfix merger), Coates had died a painful death, only to be resurrected in mid-2010 with an updated version of their classic Tea Tree shave cream, a small inventory of new-old-stock shaving brushes, and high hopes for the future. They had plans additional shaving creams, shaving soaps, aftershave balm, etc.
But it is not to be. A recent message on twitter indicated that the company is almost broke and will be put up for sale very soon. Perhaps it will be acquired by someone who can carry on but in the meantime if you like Coates products, now is the time to stock up.
[Comment from mantic59: I showed the post about Kenny's recent barber shave to several professional barbers. This response is from Jess Stern of Stag Barbershop (the place where I gave a presentation about shaving last year). Her comments follow.]
Hello Mark!
After reading the story and thinking about your questions, here are my answers. BTW, I read that story to my barbers and some of my customers and we were all terrified.