“What is the best double edge safety razor?”I get the question all the time. There’s not an easy answer–and lately the market is growing, changing and offering more choices than ever before. This is a major update to a previous set of articles on Sharpologist!
Multi-blade, pivoted cartridge razors that come from a few large multi-national companies are manufactured to a narrow set of specifications. Double-edge (DE) razors (and blades!) have a number of options to choose from. Lets look at some of the variables and see what stands out.
I’m listing the most popular razors that many people say may be “best” double edge razor in a particular category, and this article is especially aimed at the newcomer to this type of shaving. These are not the only products of course. If you know of a good DE razor not listed here be sure to mention it in a comment! All the prices in this article are in U.S. dollars and approximate. Amazon and West Coast Shaving links are affiliate.
Double Edge Razor Price Range
Probably the most obvious variable is going to be price–there’s no sense looking for something you can’t afford. I have seen new DE razor prices range from $1 to well over $400. Prices for many popular double edge razors had generally been dropping over the past few years. But there has been a recent “reset.” The low end of the market is being flooded with razors from the Pakistan and China. Many of these razors have dubious quality control. And some brands simply purchase these razors, add their own logo and resell them at a substantial mark-up.
On the other hand, the high end of the market is expanding with a number of new, artisan-made razors. But I’m not sure the supply matches the demand.
There are some acceptable inexpensive DE razors. They probably will not become heirlooms for the grand kids but they should get you started with if you are on a budget. The under $20 range offers some reasonable products, including the all plastic Dorco PL602 (here is a review) and Wilkinson Sword, the mostly-plastic Feather Popular, and the all (light) metal Weishi. Many of the lower-cost Maggard razors are also well-regarded.
I think the $20-$30 (and even higher) range is a bit of a wonky market right now. There are a lot of cheap, Pakastani- or Chinese-made razors being purchased by those trying to take advantage of the market and marking the price-point way up. It’s not true of every razor, mind you, but this range is seeing more than its share of sketchy marketers, especially on Amazon.
The $30-$60 price range is where you will start seeing the more popular, better-made razors (though as just mentioned there are some over-priced examples too). Probably the most recognized models in this range are the Edwin Jagger (EJ), Merkur, Muhle, and Parker razors. Some of the up-and-coming names that are getting more well-known for this price range include Fatip, Standard, RazoRock, Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements, and iKon.
This is the range where you will find the enormouslypopularMerkur Heavy Duty (AKA “HD,” “Heavy Classic,” or 34C) and Edwin Jagger DE89 series (differing only in the type of handle offered: the “lbl” handle variant appears to be the most popular but there are a wide variety of handle styles). These razors remain popular even with all the changes in the market over the past couple of years.
Above this price point is where you will find razors that are popular for reasons other than (or in addition to) performance. Different head styles (such as “slant” razors as discussed below), special features (including adjustable razors), and razors designed specifically for travel situations are examples of this category.
At the high end of the range ($100+, often $200+) you will find the “premium” razors. Not too many years ago the Feather AS-D2 All Stainless Steel razor was considered the high-end double edge razor. Now it’s practically “bargain basement” (for its class): the past couple of years have seen an explosion of artisan-made, luxury-priced razors with premium materials (like stainless steel or titanium) and special handle designs. Some of the names often associated with excellent premium-priced razors include (in no particular order) Wolfman, Timeless, Charcoal Goods, Raw Shaving, Blackland, Karve, and Above The Tie. RazoRock is producing a stainless steel razor (the “Game Changer”) at a break-through price point.
New vs. Used vs. Vintage
The next factor for finding the “best” double edge razor is whether it is new, used, or vintage. A new razor is just that: in production, for sale, and not previously used. A used razor is one that is currently in production but has been used before. A vintage razor is one that is out of production (both used and NOS–“new old stock”).
The previous section described popular new razors. You can get used versions of many of these same razors for probably around 75% of their new price–they generally hold their value pretty well. Resale prices for some artisan-made, premium razors can be insanely high–often multiples of the razor’s original price. Vintage prices can be “all over the road” depending on condition and the seller’s knowledge (or lack of knowledge).
There are a number of sources for used or vintage razors, including local antique stores and flea markets (though availability at these places has dropped in recent years), internet auction sites, and buy/sell/trade (B/S/T) sections of the internet shaving forums. Maybe even a forgotten razor in an older relative’s bathroom? Local stores have the advantage of having something you can see and feel–you are more likely to know to what you are getting.
Internet auction sites can be useful if you know what you’re doing and are looking for something very specific…though there is always the danger of seller shenanigans. The B/S/T areas on shaving forums are probably the place most likely to get a decent razor for a fair price. These areas sometimes have “PIF” offers as well: a user wanting to “Pay It Forward” by offering a razor at little or no cost to a new shaver, a member of the armed forces, or for some other reason.
Two excellent “vintage” DE razors include various versions of the Gillette SuperSpeed, and the Schick Krona–see How To Buy A Vintage Razor From Ebay for more information on what to look for when buying a vintage razor.
Double Edge Razor Construction: Open Comb vs. Safety Bar
Double edge razors have heads that can be divided into two general groups: Open Comb and Safety Bar. Open Comb’s have obvious “teeth” that help guide heavy stubble and shaving cream into channels. Safety Bars have a solid (or scalloped) bar that provides some additional protection to the skin from the blade’s edge.
Generally, Open Comb razors will not be as gentle on the skin as safety bar razors (the Muhle R41 notoriously so!), though there are exceptions. Most older vintage razors will have an Open Comb. A few brands try to distinguish themselves in the market by offering razors with “hybrid” heads where, for example, one side of the razor’s head has an open comb and the other side has a safety bar
Double Edge Razor Construction: Three Piece vs. Two Piece vs. One Piece (“Twist To Open”)
DE razors are typically constructed in one of three ways. Three piece are the classic” (and easiest to manufacture) type, consisting of a handle, a base plate, and a head or cap. An advantage of a three piece design is that you can sometimes “mix and match” the three pieces from different manufacturers, creating entirely new razors (you’ll sometimes see this referred to as a “frankenrazor” after Frankenstein’s monster). Two piece have the base plate permanently mounted to the handle. A one piece “twist to open” (TTO) razor is the type most common just before the ascent of modern cartridge razors: the Gillette SuperSpeed is the classic TTO.
Set Gap vs. Adjustable
The vast majority of razors have a set gap size, the distance between the razor blade’s edge and the razor’s skin safety bar: the amount of the gap distance is determined by the manufacturer for a particular model of razor. Generally speaking, Open Comb razors expose more of the blade to the skin, making for a more “aggressive” shave. But even razors with a safety bar can be aggressive: it’s all about the amount of blade exposed to the skin.
However “adjustable” razors can change the gap to make them more gentle or more aggressive. There used to be few fully adjustable razors currently made, primarily from Parker and Merkur, but others (such as the Rex Ambassador) have recently entered the market. There are also some vintage adjustable razors.
A variation of the adjustable razor design is the use of multiple base plates. The Rockwell 6S was the first modern double edge razor to popularize this feature. These razors are not “adjustable” in the normal, continuously-adjustable sense, but rather they offer different base plates: each plate has a different amount of blade exposure set. Other manufacturers are picking up on this theme (including premium razors artisans like Karve), offering different base plate options with some razors.
What is a slant razor? Think of it like a mini-guillotine for stubble. Held at an asymmetrical blade exposure by design, the slant is meant to offer a more efficient cutting angle for a DE blade which can give a closer shave more quickly. The design has been around for at least 70 years, but as the DE razor lost popularity beginning in the 1970’s, most slants also vanished from the market. This niche’ was beginning to re-assert itself a couple years ago, but the demand for them apparently did not justify continued artisan interest and there are fewer options available today.
Criteria For The Best Double Edge Razor
Here are what I consider the “best” double edge razors in several different categories. This is based on:
My own experience and the experience of other users as researched on various internet forums and blogs;
Reputation of the manufacturer and the general quality control of the razor’s production;
Length of time on the market;
Razor’s general availability, stability of design, and popularity;
Razor’s over-all value (quality vs. price).
Remember the old adage, “Your Mileage May Vary!” I was not paid by any manufacturer for these recommendations.
Best Open Comb Razor: Parker open comb razors, the 24C and the 26C (differing only in handle design. Both shave very well and are not overly-aggressive).
Best “Price Is No Object” Razor: currently OPEN–there are so many excellent, artisan-made razors that it’s hard to pick “the best.” Your comments/suggestions welcome! Stay tuned for an update. Honorable Mention: Feather AS-D2 All Stainless Steel.
Best Vintage Razor: Gillette SuperSpeed, circa 1955 (Honorable Mention: Schick Krona, circa 1965)
What About The Best Safety Razor Blades – A Further Caution To The Beginner
No discussion about the best double edge razor would be complete without mentioning blades. Many beginners think “a blade is a blade” and while DE blades may all look similar there can actually be fairly significant differences in the way a blade is made. Metallurgy (the metal or combination of metals used to make the blade), coatings, and grinding specifications (the blade’s “sharpness”) can all play a part in the production process.
So take the time to try a number of different blade brands to find the one(s) that work best for the razor you’re using (your skin, the mineral content of the water you’re using, and the shave lather you’re using play parts too). Even if you are already using a DE razor you may need to do some additional blade experimentation if you buy another DE.
Some shaving vendors sell “sample packs” or “blade samplers” to make the process easier: you get a few blades of many different types. After you decide which one(s) work best you can then buy your favorites in bulk, saving a ton of money!
A Final Note
Shaving with a DE razor — even the best double edge razor — is not quite like shaving with a modern pivoted cartridge razor: you can’t just take mindless swipes at your face and expect a good shave. You have to learn a new skill set (and possibly unlearn some bad habits) to use a DE razor properly. It’s not a terribly difficult skill to pick up but there is a learning curve. And like learning to ride a bike or play a musical instrument some will pick it up more quickly than others. Luckily, I have a few videos to help you out!
Over to you! What do you think? (Find this article useful? Be sure to share it!)
Reader Interactions
Comments
João isidrosays
I started using a DE one year ago. I bought a Muhle R41 (if not mistake). In the beginning i regreated, because of the cut and constatly burned face but then i learn how to use the machine and those problems dissaperead. I discovered some weeks ago the adjustable DE razor and read a lot and look a lot for info. So i decided for now for the Qshave and uau how awesome. I started at 5 and really enjoy it. Didn’t cut my self, no burning face and a very smooth sensation. I used the same blades that im used to use, feather blades. I will definitely will up grade for a PArker variant.
I have recently purchased the Rockwell 2c(Gunmetal) and so far has been one of the best razors I have purchased in a long time, I may look at the 6s in the future or even the Model T?(Pennies permitting).
Why didn’t you mention the adjustable razor that is taking the market by storm the last few years? The Weishi Adjustable, AKA 2000S. It was modeled after the Futur and is gaining in popularity due to it’s great shaves and really low (for an adjustable!) price. Match it up with a Wilkinson Sword or Astra SP and you are good to go. If you don’t like that one, go to a vintage adjustable Gillette Fatboy or Slim. For the non-adjustable, the tried and true Gillette SuperSpeed is where it’s at for a daily razor.
Thanks for another great article. I was disappointed, however, to see no mention of the Vikings Blade Odin, a Twist-to-Open jewel. I have been using with Astra and Persona blades since April 2018 and prefer it for my daily shave over my Merkur slant and travel razors. That said, thank you for keeping your readers informed with your interesting, fact based, and sensory perspective.
I agree on the Rex Ambassador being the best adjustable. I have a heavy, coarse beard but sensitive skin, and the Rex is just so smooth and efficient and infinitely adjustable to dial in exactly what I want. The price point was worth it–and I’m shocked at saying that. But, I’ve shelved all my other faithful “bests” after using the Rex, and I never thought I’d say that after years with my Supply Single Edge injector, and the Mongoose Alumigoose with Feather Pro artist club blades. I also have my grandfather’s Gillette Super Speed 1960 Flair Tip, which I reserve for special occasions, and used in teaching my son to shave because it’s so mild, forgiving, and smooth. Plus the TTO design was less scary as far as blade handling for him. Now he’s happily using a Maggard Razors open comb head on a heavy, brass West Coast Shaving long handle. The Maggard open comb is quite mild because the base plate is so thick that the blade exposure is reduced. So it provides him with an easy way to tackle heavy stubble, but avoids the risks of aggressively over-shaving and burning up his face. We both thank you for sharing your knowledge and teaching about all things wet shaving, and we referenced your experiences and advice when it came time to teach him to shave. Which was early at age 13, but he was so scruffy and mustachioed we couldn’t hold off. I wish I had your resources and information about wet shaving 35 years ago. Would never have hated shaving for decades like I did. Now I’m a shaving enthusiast, and look forward to pampering myself with a nice shave. Thanks for your hard work in providing thorough resources of such high quality to the shaving community!
I have often wondered just how good a shave I would get from the Price Is No Object group, but some how couldn’t justify the cost since for the price of one I bought four. I have a Muhle R89, EJ, Timor 1350 and Merkur heavy classic 2pc. I get a great shave from all, If I had to pick a favorite it would have to be 2, the Merkur and Timor( I find myself using these two the most).
Thanks for the excellent update Mark. I own several of the ones mentioned. My favorite is the Merkur 34. I have the C and the G both. The Fatip Gentile is excellent. I had only used my Muhle 41 a few times due to it’s aggressiveness, but I’ve been using it every few shaves the last couple of weeks because I saw your interview with Kensurfs. It inspired me to tame it.
An excellent update on a already well written article. I have several of the razors mentioned. My go-to is the Merkur 34. I have the 34C and G both. My Muhle R41 had been out of use because of it’s aggressiveness but your interview with Kensurfs inspired me to bring it out and tame it since I heard that he had. The Fatip Gentile is a great razor. I like the Fatips and have one of each model. I think the Piccolo might be my best of those. I really like the EJ razors too. Thanks for your time and knowledge you give.
Good-on-yeah, Mark, for making an actual “list” of favorites!! New-to-d.e. shaving folks will at least have a guide to start with. Myself, as a newbie, years ago, fell into the “trap” of spending gobs of $$ on stuff that really didn’t do the job. Now, older and wiser, (with less $$ in my pocket) have found my kit: Muhle 89 w/ a Feather or Derby Extra blade. Anyways, my .02 cents!! Semper-fi, Mike
As a long time wet shaver, I have learned by trial and error, and more expensive does not translate to better.
I have owned every expensive razor out there, from Wolfman to Blackland. I don’t hangout on shaving sites, too many egos, but when I did, I figure out owning these “expensive” razors was more about bragging rights than actual performance, everything became much clearer.
These razors don’t shave any better than a good Toggle. The problem is the people who owns these expensive razors think they are holding some type of IRA in their hands and refuse to admit the truth.
Thank you for the update Mark. In the price-no-object category, I think the Above The Tie Windsor R is one of the two best razors I have ever used. I have used the Kronos for three years, but it has been knocked off its perch by the Windsor. The original ATT models had too much blade exposure for me. I guess that Stan thought so as well since he has replaced them with the much smoother shaving equally efficient Windsor. My ATT Windsor, and my Feather AS D2 are my “pry them from my cold dead hands” razors. I do think that you are not giving Feather enough credit. It has stood the test of time, provides a shave that is as good as it gets, is widely available, and should be elevated to best in class status rather than honorable mention.
There is a distinct lack of mid range wonders. The 34 is a great razor but the razorock mamba and game changer smash it. This site is becoming generic and not the source of information and knowledge it once was.
Dean, I agree that the RR Mamba and GC are good razors. The problem is they are often out of stock and only available from a single vendor. Larry also mentioned a number of worthy competitors that I may consider for a future update (particularly the Fatip Gentile). But the 34 and the DE89 continue to be enormously popular and an easy recommendation as a stable, widely available, reasonably priced razor.
The title is about the best razor, it doesn’t mention the most widely available. The Game Changer is vastly superior, both in material and shave quality, to the Merkur or Edwin Jagger, and easily bests any Parker I’ve ever shaved with.
Ben, the GC is a nice razor and may indeed appear on a future update of the list but it is nowhere near as available as many other razors. It is available from only one source and it is often out of stock.
Yes, I understand. However, as I said before, the title of the article mentions the Best Razor, not the most widely available or most easily attained. Being able to get something easily doesn’t make it better, and should not be part of the criteria when considering what razor is best.
Billsays
I agree. I use the RazoRock German Slant and Game Changer as my favorites. Great quality CNC manufactured from stainless steel not coated cast metal like Jagger’s.
I started using a DE one year ago. I bought a Muhle R41 (if not mistake). In the beginning i regreated, because of the cut and constatly burned face but then i learn how to use the machine and those problems dissaperead.
I discovered some weeks ago the adjustable DE razor and read a lot and look a lot for info. So i decided for now for the Qshave and uau how awesome. I started at 5 and really enjoy it. Didn’t cut my self, no burning face and a very smooth sensation. I used the same blades that im used to use, feather blades.
I will definitely will up grade for a PArker variant.
I have recently purchased the Rockwell 2c(Gunmetal) and so far has been one of the best razors I have purchased in a long time, I may look at the 6s in the future or even the Model T?(Pennies permitting).
Why didn’t you mention the adjustable razor that is taking the market by storm the last few years? The Weishi Adjustable, AKA 2000S. It was modeled after the Futur and is gaining in popularity due to it’s great shaves and really low (for an adjustable!) price.
Match it up with a Wilkinson Sword or Astra SP and you are good to go. If you don’t like that one, go to a vintage adjustable Gillette Fatboy or Slim. For the non-adjustable, the tried and true Gillette SuperSpeed is where it’s at for a daily razor.
I reference the QShave and Weishi adjustables in the linked article Is The Adjustable Safety Razor Finally Catching On?
Thanks for another great article. I was disappointed, however, to see no mention of the Vikings Blade Odin, a Twist-to-Open jewel. I have been using with Astra and Persona blades since April 2018 and prefer it for my daily shave over my Merkur slant and travel razors.
That said, thank you for keeping your readers informed with your interesting, fact based, and sensory perspective.
no mention of the Karve?? out performs all others imho. Of course as always, ymmv.
Karve is mentioned in the article text (in the “Price Range” and “Adjustable” sections).
I agree on the Rex Ambassador being the best adjustable. I have a heavy, coarse beard but sensitive skin, and the Rex is just so smooth and efficient and infinitely adjustable to dial in exactly what I want. The price point was worth it–and I’m shocked at saying that. But, I’ve shelved all my other faithful “bests” after using the Rex, and I never thought I’d say that after years with my Supply Single Edge injector, and the Mongoose Alumigoose with Feather Pro artist club blades. I also have my grandfather’s Gillette Super Speed 1960 Flair Tip, which I reserve for special occasions, and used in teaching my son to shave because it’s so mild, forgiving, and smooth. Plus the TTO design was less scary as far as blade handling for him. Now he’s happily using a Maggard Razors open comb head on a heavy, brass West Coast Shaving long handle. The Maggard open comb is quite mild because the base plate is so thick that the blade exposure is reduced. So it provides him with an easy way to tackle heavy stubble, but avoids the risks of aggressively over-shaving and burning up his face. We both thank you for sharing your knowledge and teaching about all things wet shaving, and we referenced your experiences and advice when it came time to teach him to shave. Which was early at age 13, but he was so scruffy and mustachioed we couldn’t hold off. I wish I had your resources and information about wet shaving 35 years ago. Would never have hated shaving for decades like I did. Now I’m a shaving enthusiast, and look forward to pampering myself with a nice shave. Thanks for your hard work in providing thorough resources of such high quality to the shaving community!
I have often wondered just how good a shave I would get from the Price Is No Object group, but some how couldn’t justify the cost since for the price of one I bought four. I have a Muhle R89, EJ, Timor 1350 and Merkur heavy classic 2pc. I get a great shave from all, If I had to pick a favorite it would have to be 2, the Merkur and Timor( I find myself using these two the most).
Thanks for the excellent update Mark. I own several of the ones mentioned. My favorite is the Merkur 34. I have the C and the G both. The Fatip Gentile is excellent. I had only used my Muhle 41 a few times due to it’s aggressiveness, but I’ve been using it every few shaves the last couple of weeks because I saw your interview with Kensurfs. It inspired me to tame it.
An excellent update on a already well written article. I have several of the razors mentioned. My go-to is the Merkur 34. I have the 34C and G both. My Muhle R41 had been out of use because of it’s aggressiveness but your interview with Kensurfs inspired me to bring it out and tame it since I heard that he had. The Fatip Gentile is a great razor. I like the Fatips and have one of each model. I think the Piccolo might be my best of those. I really like the EJ razors too.
Thanks for your time and knowledge you give.
In the open comb category the Schone & Fatip razors are outstanding. Brass construction, made in Italy, and priced at $25-$30.
Loading the blade with the razor upside down offers excellent alignment.
Good-on-yeah, Mark, for making an actual “list” of favorites!! New-to-d.e. shaving folks will at least have a guide to start with.
Myself, as a newbie, years ago, fell into the “trap” of spending gobs of $$ on stuff that really didn’t do the job. Now, older and wiser, (with less $$ in my pocket) have found my kit: Muhle 89 w/ a Feather or Derby Extra blade. Anyways, my .02 cents!! Semper-fi, Mike
As a long time wet shaver, I have learned by trial and error, and more expensive does not translate to better.
I have owned every expensive razor out there, from Wolfman to Blackland. I don’t hangout on shaving sites, too many egos, but when I did, I figure out owning these “expensive” razors was more about bragging rights than actual performance, everything became much clearer.
These razors don’t shave any better than a good Toggle. The problem is the people who owns these expensive razors think they are holding some type of IRA in their hands and refuse to admit the truth.
Save the money!
I found a new gem you didn’t mention, it is Razorine, full brass made in Italy under $50 and a totally new shaving experience…
That would be more like a “Shavette” or “barber straight” and not related to this particular article.
Thank you for the update Mark. In the price-no-object category, I think the Above The Tie Windsor R is one of the two best razors I have ever used. I have used the Kronos for three years, but it has been knocked off its perch by the Windsor. The original ATT models had too much blade exposure for me. I guess that Stan thought so as well since he has replaced them with the much smoother shaving equally efficient Windsor. My ATT Windsor, and my Feather AS D2 are my “pry them from my cold dead hands” razors. I do think that you are not giving Feather enough credit. It has stood the test of time, provides a shave that is as good as it gets, is widely available, and should be elevated to best in class status rather than honorable mention.
There is a distinct lack of mid range wonders. The 34 is a great razor but the razorock mamba and game changer smash it. This site is becoming generic and not the source of information and knowledge it once was.
Dean, I agree that the RR Mamba and GC are good razors. The problem is they are often out of stock and only available from a single vendor. Larry also mentioned a number of worthy competitors that I may consider for a future update (particularly the Fatip Gentile). But the 34 and the DE89 continue to be enormously popular and an easy recommendation as a stable, widely available, reasonably priced razor.
The title is about the best razor, it doesn’t mention the most widely available. The Game Changer is vastly superior, both in material and shave quality, to the Merkur or Edwin Jagger, and easily bests any Parker I’ve ever shaved with.
Ben, the GC is a nice razor and may indeed appear on a future update of the list but it is nowhere near as available as many other razors. It is available from only one source and it is often out of stock.
Yes, I understand. However, as I said before, the title of the article mentions the Best Razor, not the most widely available or most easily attained. Being able to get something easily doesn’t make it better, and should not be part of the criteria when considering what razor is best.
I agree. I use the RazoRock German Slant and Game Changer as my favorites. Great quality CNC manufactured from stainless steel not coated cast metal like Jagger’s.
Do you prefer the shave of GC to the shave of Baby Smooth? or prefer it to Ikon 102? Or prefer it to that of an Above the Tie Calypso?
I would suggest that the Rockwell 6c should be added to the best popular class. Or at least given an honorable mention.
The best adjustable razor in my collection is the Rockwell 6C (gunmetal).
1) Weber PH
2)Razorock Game Changer
3) Fatip Testina Gentile
4) iKon OC deluxe
5)Standard
6)iKon 102
It’s a little difficult in 2019 to get a Weber PH, isn’t it? Have you got a source for them?
I bought 3, when they first launched and sold 2 on eBay so I’d keep my eye on it there.