Following up on my last article, I’d like to talk a bit more in detail about Japanese whetstones and their characteristics, especially the vocabulary associated with them.

What’s in a name?
The first thing people notice when they start looking into Japanese whetstones is all the names.  Nakayama Asagi Tomae. Ozuku Kiita Namito. Maruo Ikimurasaki Shikitomae. It’s all very confusing, but the sad thing is, it’s mostly unnecessary. The names we use to describe Japanese stones usually break down into three parts: The source, the color, and sometimes the layer of stone it was mined from. Of that information, the only one that we really need to worry about is the last, and this is the one that is least often used by sellers.

For example, let’s take one of the phrases from above: Nakayama Asagi Tomae. The first word, Nakayama, refers to the mountain that gave birth to the stone. Nakayama is one of the oldest, and most famous…and most expensive. Its reputation is excellent for all sorts of sharpening needs, including razors, and that’s why Nakayama stones are among the most expensive hones of all. But is it important to know that?

As I said in my last article, there are many many mines that produced these stones (almost all of them are now closed, and the stones we see these days are all old stock.) The ones we call the “Eastern” mines all produced stones of comparable quality in terms of purity, size of abrasive particles, and so on, so the name honestly doesn’t matter much. Let’s be honest: these mines are all clustered within a five mile circle or so, which in geological terms is tiny, so the stones are actually pretty much the same. The only useful information you can get from the name of the mine is whether it’s an Eastern stone or not, and if you are buying a razor stone from a reputable buyer then it really should be, and thus the name of the mine is largely irrelevant.

The next word, Asagi, refers to the color of the stone. This word, oddly, translates to “light yellow,” but the stones labeled “Asagi” are all in shades of blue or gray. Yeah, I said it was confusing.

Asagi, Kiita, Habutae, Renge, and all of the other color words are just descriptions of the aesthetic qualities of the stone. I won’t say this isn’t important, because the psychological appeal of a good looking stone can not be denied. Indeed, the craftsmen using these stones all seem to gravitate towards ones with unique or interesting patterns, leading to much higher prices for those stones. However, these colors and patterns are simply that: colors. They have almost no discernible effect on the way your stone will hone, or the quality of the edge it will leave. So while the names have some poetic appeal (who doesn’t want a “Pure white silk lotus-blossom nested pattern” on their stone?) they don’t really matter in terms of practicality.

Finally, we have the layer of rock, such as Tomae (from our example), Namito or Suita. This, finally, is actually important. You see, the place where they mine these stones is located on a ribbon of stone 12 miles long, which is layered like a cake. This layering is similar to what you can see if you look at the sides of a cliff of sedimentary rock. The deeper you go, the older and harder the stone is, and vice versa. This layering can affect the quality of the stone in many ways, and thus knowing which layer of rock your hone came from can be of real practical value. Luckily, the miners long ago realized this and gave each layer a distinct name. Unluckily, in many cases they forgot to mark the layer on the stone, and since these are all old stock it can often be difficult to name the layer. A real expert, and there are a few out there, can sometimes tell by looking but even then it’s no real guarantee.

So there you have some basic information on Japanese stones. Their history, their quality, and their use is a subject that can (and does) fill a book. If you’d like to know more, there are a couple of places I would point you to. The first is my blog (toot toot!) Eastern Smooth. I’ve spent the last couple of years compiling information and learning what I could about Japanese stones, and everything I can think of is there, including a glossary of words used with Japanese stones, explaining the mysterious words I used above. The glossary can be found here: A Japanese Hone Glossary.

Another useful site is http://www.japan-tool.com/, a commercial site which also has some invaluable information on Japanese natural stones. Check the links on the left.

In my next article, I’ll talk in a bit more detail about using these stones, and selecting one if you are looking to buy.

OK, I admit this post has nothing to do with Sharpologist’s usual subject matter.

But it’s pretty cool.

Last year I participated in a research study about using a robot (“Survivor Buddy”) to interact with people trapped in disaster situations.  I was buried in the rubble of a collapsed building (simulated of course) and a series of experiments were conducted on how I reacted to being “found” by the robot.  I was given special goggles that could track my eye movements so the researchers could see what I was looking at during the test period.  It was all very fascinating and surprisingly realistic–I really felt “buried” (in fact my wife participated too and she actually became a little panicky at one point).

The video of my participation just became available so I thought I would share it. It begins just before the building “collapes” (the moving “target” you see in the video is the eye tracker):

(Thanks to the Department of Computer Science and Engineering at Texas A&M University.)

Times are tough, but shaving doesn’t have to be a wallet-breaker! This is the next review in my series on affordable shaving creams. From my first review:

Like many wet shavers, the temptation to buy product is always looming, tantalizing. Such a cruel yet satisfying mistress. In an attempt to quench that thirst, I started combing the online shaving stores and reviews for some of the better rated, inexpensive shave creams.

Previous Review: Cremo Cream

Next up…

Proraso Green (new formula)

For my shaves I use the same prep and post-shave products each time.

Pre-shave: Hot shower, leaving beard wet; Truefitt & Hill pre-shave oil (but to be honest, I’m not sure it really helps) I ran out and can’t afford more right now; lather beard for at least a full minute.

Shave: 1948 Gillette Superspeed with an Iridium Super blade.

Post-shave: Warm/hot rinse, cool rinse; blot major drips of water with towel but leave beard moist; Pre de Provence after-shave balm.

Scent

Another clean barbershop scent with menthol and eucalyptus. Slightly citrus; a bit dry and green smelling to my nose. Very pleasant. I did not find the menthol or eucalyptus to be overwhelming, and I have a very sensitive nose (definitely didn’t smell like koala droppings). Proraso struck a good balance with the notes.

Lather

From my tests, this cream is hydrophilic (loves water). I needed more water than usual – perhaps an extra teaspoon — to achieve sufficient hydration, the sweet spot. Within a minute or two, I had beautifully thick lather from a small amount of cream (almond size), which was a nice surprise considering I usually need a bit more cream with the hard water that we have here in Los Angeles; plenty for two or three passes.

The cream stayed hydrated through all passes, even in a hot scuttle.

Performance

Yowza!

(that was a good “yowza” by the way)

I am thoroughly impressed by this product. With my ’48 Gillette Superspeed, I got very, close and comfortable shaves. The blade seems to really glide over this stuff. Recently, I bought a Muhle R101 open-comb DE razor. I did a quick one-pass run using this cream and got the closest shave I have ever had — what a great razor! Close, comfortable, moisturizing with either razor.

After rinsing with warm water, I then rinsed with the cool/cold water. Hoooooooooo weeeeeee, Bubba! That sure woke me up! It’s like drinking cool water when you have a mint in your mouth. Arctic breeze anyone? The first time was a bit startling, but now I enjoy the briskness.

Value

So far, it’s the best cream I’ve reviewed with Speick Men being a close runner up. Outstanding shaves! A wonderful value at $9 (US) for 150 ml (5.0 oz).

The Bottom Line

I give the cream a 10/10.

Ingredients: Aqua, Stearic Acid, Cocos nucifera Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Menthol, Camphor, Eucalyptol, Eucalyptus globulus Leaf Oil, Pentaerythriytyl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Metasilicate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Hydorixyethylcellulose, Sodium Hyrdoxymethylglycinate, Geraniol, Parfum

The Harvard Review had a recent article on how Proctor & Gamble’s Gillette division used “reverse innovation” to bring a new, inexpensive razor to India–the Gillette Guard.  You can read the whole thing at the link but let me summarize:

• Gillette enjoys extraordinary gross margins in the Western world but don’t fare nearly as well in developing markets such as India.
• In India, Gillette historically focused on selling their low- and mid-tier American razors in different packaging. But the rural majority still shaved with double-edge razors, “a century-old technology that tends to cause far more cuts and bleeding” (I’ll get to that comment in a while…).
• P&G reversed the innovation approach at Gillette. It sent a team to India to research customers.  They discovered the typical shaver (particularly in rural areas) was not only far more price-sensitive but also shaved in a completely different way: probably sitting on the floor, with a bowl of water, a hand-held mirror in low light, and “experiencing frequent nicks and cuts from his double-edged razor” (yeah, like I said I’ll get to that…).
• P&G/Gillette then created a razor to meet the specific needs of this consumer. “The result was the Gillette Guard, perhaps the most significant departure from its traditional product development in Gillette’s history. The Guard uses 80% fewer parts, a plastic housing, and a single blade to minimize cost while preserving ‘good-enough’ shaving performance. It also has a large safety comb to reduce nicks and cuts, easy-rinse cartridges for better cleaning without running water, and several other key features designed specifically for the Indian shaver.”
• Along with an Indian-centric product Gillette also built an Indian-centric business model. Manufacturing is done locally to further control production and supply chain costs, resulting in razors and blade cartridges selling for 15 and 5 rupees, respectively (about US $0.30 and US $0.10) — less than 3% of the Fusion ProGlide’s prices. “To distribute the product, rather than forming strong relationships with a handful of powerful retailers as in the U.S. or Europe, P&G had to strengthen its network of millions of Indian kiranas, or local shops.”
• Finally, unlike developed markets where the focus is increasingly on digital marketing, P&G invested instead in traditional ads featuring “Bollywood” actors.

The result?  The article asserts that six months after its introduction, the Gillette Guard had over 50% of the market share by volume.

I’ve mentioned the Gillette Guard before.  I think it’s actually a decent razor for what it is–inexpensive (well, in the Indian market.  Getting one here in the ‘States is a little more expensive), engineered simply but with some interesting features, and designed with the needs of the typical user in mind.  The article’s author suggests they need to apply that success to other emerging markets such as China and Africa, and then possibly onward to developed countries (possibly purposely disrupting their “core business” in the process).

But the author’s swipes at DE razors raised the hackles of traditional shavers.  The article’s comment section is filled with defenders of the DE taking the author to task that the DE causes “frequent nicks and cuts.”  Somewhat surprisingly to me–and to his credit–the article’s co-author wades right in to refute some of the criticisms.

Like many of those commenting on the article, I thought the complaints about DE’s were largely an “excuse.”  After all, P&G/Gillette is looking for market share and profit (not necessarily a bad thing) with a proprietary product they have engineering control over (patents for DE safety razor blades have long since expired) so it would only make sense to criticize a competing product.  However, there are some facts in the mix that Westerners may not know about.  I was able to get the opinion of a major manufacturer about the state of DE razors sold to low income consumers in Indian and Asian countries and got some interesting insights–basically that the majority of DE’s made for those markets by manufacturers there are…well…poor quality.  There are DE razors with plastic heads, poor shave angles, over exposure, etc.   The name of the game is reducing the price of the product by any means possible as the majority of consumers are very low income and base purchase decisions on price – not quality.  No wonder shavers get nicks and cuts.

Although I don’t like the environmental polluting aspect of yet another plastic cartridge, the Gillette Guard and the “reverse innovation” concept appear to be a success.

Take a look at the article and comments and let me know what you think.

Tallow is perhaps the most traditional and widely used ingredient for shaving soaps because it is readily available, inexpensive and when saponified, pure tallow renders a nearly ideal fatty acid profile for making good quality shaving soaps. However, these facts have lead to many misconceptions regarding the benefits of tallow and have subsequently generated several myths. In the present article we will visit a few of them and provide an up to date scientific view on their basis, or lack of.

1) “Tallow-based soaps constitute a different class of soaps.” Tallow is an animal triglyceride derived from beef fat and since oils and fats cannot act as surfactants, they cannot directly produce lather. The connection between triglycerides and soap is the saponification reaction in which the triglycerides are broken down to produce fatty acids, which are directly responsible for the surfactant properties of soaps. The process of making a tallow-based soap is identical to making castile soap or any other soap. The only difference is the resulting fatty acid profile from the oils and fats used. Obviously, tallow soaps can be milled to alter the fatty acid profile but one can also mill soaps produced by traditional saponification containing other fats. Verdict: false. Substitution of one ingredient for another cannot be regarded as a different type of soaps.

2) “Tallow-based soaps perform better.” Some high end tallow-based soaps are outstanding and this fact has been extended into the myth that every tallow-based soap is great. The truth is that some tallow-based soaps are mediocre at best, particularly one sold under the name of “mug soap”. Verdict: obviously false, there are good and bad tallow-based soaps.

3) “Tallow-based soaps condition my skin better.” Triglycerides, like tallow, do not readily penetrate to the interior of cells, non-saponified oils and fats act as a barrier. Saponified tallow produces a high percentage of oleic acid, the main product of saponification of olive oil and a well known skin conditioner. Oleic acid is a non-essential fatty acid that is found in human sebum. Oleic acid has a wide range of positive effects on the skin including acting as emollient and moisturizer. Oleic acid aids skin regeneration and helps reduce inflammation. Oleic acid is readily absorbed by the skin and can help absorption of other important molecules like omega-3 fatty acid which plays an important role in inflammation and reduction of bad cholesterol. Despite all its benefits, oleic acid can also irritate the skin and cause acne. Verdict: true. Oleic acid can be beneficial for the skin of some people but in excess, unsaturated especially poly unsaturated fatty acids can reduce shelf life and cause skin irritation.

4) “Tallow soaps can make me sick.” This is a delicate and potentially dangerous point. Although to my knowledge, there has not been a single case of Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (mad cow disease or BSE) that can be traced to tallow, some people believe that tallow could be a source of protein prions. Prions are small proteinaceous infectious disease-causing agents that have been suggested as the likely cause of the BSE infections Since July 2004 the FDA has put in place regulations to prevent the use of beef products in food and cosmetics. The World Health Organization ranks tallow as low risk for transmission of BSE. In addition, tallow contains about 50% monosaturated that is believed to have beneficial effects on cancer by reducing tumor cell growth. Furthermore, tallow can have high contents of linoleic acid which helps in controlling cholesterol levels. Verdict: False or in need of further scientific evidence. As a result of these growing concerns and some of the regulations that have followed, the number of reformulated tallow-base soaps is on the rise.

5) “Tallow soaps are made with animal fats.” Historically, tallow was the rendered form of beef fat and as such, a byproduct of the meat industry and a relatively inexpensive ingredient. Nowadays, “tallow” refers to an industrial material that has a certain fatty acid composition, degree of saturation, melting point, etc. that does not necessarily need to be obtained from beef or even animal fats. Tallow-based soaps can contain vegetable fats, even if none is added by the manufacturer. Verdict: false. Although typically people tend to react against the use of animal products, in this case, it should be said that animal product lovers should not expect 100% animal fat in their tallow soaps.

6) “Tallow-based soaps last longer than other shaving product.” As Tallow is broken down during saponification, it is replaced by fatty acids and glycerol that are smaller molecules. For the most part, triglycerides (oils and fats) contain the same fatty acids albeit, in different proportions. Fatty acids differ in length and also in the number of unsaturations (double bonds) and this affects their volume. Since the fatty acid profile that is necessary for good performance is limited, the composition of most shaving soaps is chemically similar, with large deviations from these general guidelines resulting in poor performance. From this point of view, it would be hard to imagine that the origin of the fats alone determine the lasting power of a product. Verdict: False. Some tallow-based soaps last longer than other soaps because they have a lower water content, often because they are milled. It is the water content and in turn its density what determines a soap’s lasting power rather than the fats used in its manufacture.

7) “Tallow soaps are so good because they contain lanolin.” Lanolin is a yellowish substance secreted by the sebaceous glands and extracted from the wool of sheep and other animals. Contrary to popular belief, lanolin is not a fat (triglyceride) and hence cannot be saponified. However, it is common to hear the term “wool fat” to refer to lanolin. It is perhaps this fact that inspired the myth that animal fats, in particular tallow, contain lanolin. As tallow comes from beef and lanolin mainly from sheep (actually from the wool of all wool-bearing animals), there is no connection between them other than shaving soaps can contain both and in fact, some do. It is also commonly thought that lanolin replaces glycerin in soap formulations; this is not true: glycerin is a byproduct of the saponification reaction and a permanent ingredient of soap, unless it is removed afterwards.The similarity between lanolin and some of the lipids in the stratum corneum, the compounds that regulate water-loss in the skin, make lanolin an ideal semi-occlusive film suitable for use in cosmetics. Lanolin also acts as a potent emollient. Some studies indicate that the beneficial effects of lanolin are more pronounced than those of glycerin or petrolatum. On the other hand, wool alcohols, a class of compounds derived from lanolin, could be responsible for sensitization of the skin and contact dermatitis. Impure lanolin can contain significant amounts of pesticides and other undesirable compounds. The maximal content of these compounds in lanolin is strictly regulated. Nowadays, high purity or modified, hypoallergenic lanolin is available to minimize the health hazards. Verdict: False. In the absence of allergic reactions, the evidence suggests that lanolin can be beneficial for the skin. However, there is no direct connection between tallow and lanolin beyond that both are originally animal products. Although some shaving soaps contain both, there is no reason why non-tallow soaps that contain lanolin could not provide the same benefits.

A little note on reformulation: Saponified tallow has a very high content of stearic and palmitic acids, with slightly higher palmitic than stearic acid content. Due to growing health concerns, many tallow-based products have been reformulated in recent years. Palmitic acid is often used to partially replace stearic acid in newer formulations with only a few noticeable effects. The high content of palmitic acid found in palm oil is responsible for the popularity of palm oil as tallow’s replacement in newer vegetable formulations of old classics. Supplementation of palm oil with stearic acid produces a fatty acid profile that is very close to that of pure tallow. For this reason, products using these formulations have remarkably similar performance.

The fondness of shaving aficionados for tallow-based soaps in unquestionable and for a good reason: some tallow-based soaps are among the best in the world. However, the implication that that fact by itself makes any tallow-based product great, is absurd. Vegetable formulations can perform as well as the best tallow-based soaps or better and in fact, some of the best “latherers” are non-tallow shaving creams. Tallow-based soaps are not a special class of soaps and do not last longer per se. So far, tallow soaps have been safe and can be better skin conditioners than others. Finally, be aware that the current tallow can contain vegetable oils too.

Al.

Thanks to Mark Judge for permission to use his video above.

It is generally advised that new traditional shavers learn their technique in a quiet environment so they can get the audio feedback of the razor to gauge how its cutting. And it is a very useful suggestion (plus some people can really get into the full sensory feedback as part of the enjoyment that can be found in shaving).  But after that initial learning curve, music playing (softly) in the background can enhance the shave in a different way.  Use music to set a mood: relax or energize, suggest an environment, or transport you to a different time.

But music selection for a shave should not be random–put some thought into:

• The goal(s);
• The tempo or pace of the music;
• The total time of the playlist.

The goal is the mood you want to be put into.  Want to feel like you’re in a classic barber shop?  Remind yourself of your younger days?  Create a calm, meditative environment to prepare you for the day (or relax for bed)?  Motivate you for getting to work?

The tempo of the music is probably the trickiest aspect of music selection.  Too fast and it could unconsciously rush you through your shave.  Tempo that changes within the song can throw off your shaving pace.  For example I love “Massive Transit” by Cindy Bradley but I can’t shave by it.  Tempo changes between songs is not quite as important but any good radio DJ will tell you that tempo transitions between songs done well feels seamless, while transitions not done well can ruin the desired effect.

The total time of the playlist is probably the easiest to deal with: it should simply be a little shorter than the time you spend for a typical shave.

Of course, no matter what music you select it should be something you enjoy listening to!  Let me suggestion some music genres to consider, with some samples (music for illustrative purposes only and fall under Fair Use).

1) American Classics

This genre has also been referred to as “Rat Pack,” Swing, or Vocal Standards.  Artists such as Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Harry Connick Jr., Mel Torme’, or Tony Bennett are often associated with this genre, and this is the music most often thought of when trying to recreate the feel of an old time barbershop.

American Classics Samples

2) Smooth Jazz

This is usually considered as non-vocal, “mainstream” jazz music, also usually associated with the decades of the 50′s and 60′s, although the genre remains vigorous today.  This is another genre often associated with the bygone days of the corner barbershop.

Smooth Jazz Samples

3) “New Age”

Some consider this almost a sub-genre of smooth jazz but it is more “up-to-date,” with instruments and techniques considered non-traditional for jazz.  “New Age” music probably had its hey-day in the 1980′s but is still popular today.

New Age Samples

4) The Music of Your Generation

This is simply a selection of the music you grew up with.

• 70s Sample
• 80s Sample
• 90s Sample

One Genre You Do Not Want To Shave To

Comedy.  Trust me, the last thing you want to be doing while you shave is laugh!

Comedy Sample

Do you shave to music?  What kind of sound do you enjoy?

Anyone who has kept track of my habits knows I’m fond of Las Vegas.  The shows, the food, the gambling…it all makes for a great (but temporary) fantasy getaway.  It also helps that my wife and I were married there.

And we’re going back for our 10th wedding anniversary!  Whenever we go I try to get a barber shave from one of the many high-end spas.  I’ve previously gotten shaved at Art of Shaving (in Mandalay Bay), Truefitt and Hill in Mirage, and the Wynn’s facility.  All have been excellent, though admittedly I could have done just as well myself…this is more like a “pampering” experience for myself, letting someone else do the work for a change.  And it’s always a good opportunity to pick up a nugget or two of shaving information too.

So if you have any special requests about something shaving-related you’d like me to check out (heard of a great barber there that I haven’t seen yet?) or have a recommendation of some place you may have been to please leave a comment and I will try to accommodate you!  A follow-up post (and hopefully a video!) will come after I return.